Friday, October 26, 2007

Fun in Bobo

Ani sogoma!

Here's a little entry with the latest updates! I got back from Morocco safe and sound (with my 30kg of supplies...ehe...), and got to stay with Nathalie before heading back home to Houndé. When I was arrived REVS+ was in the middle of a campaign to offer 1000 free HIV tests in Houndé's surrounding villages. I accompanied the group out to 2 villages, and it was super interesting! We had hundreds of people come to get tested, and it neat to do the pretest counseling, and then deliver the results. I also got to experience the harder side of our work, when we had to tell one man that he was HIV positive. I was amazed at how he took it...calmly and seriously, and I can only pray that he doesn't get discouraged, but that he realizes that it's not the end and that he can live a normal and rewarding life.

Just as I started to settle into Houndé life again, I was sent off to Bobo for the annual Uniterra meeting for the HIV/AIDS sector. We spent the last two days collaborating with other partners and discussing our work. I think that it will really help us continue our work, since now my role within my organization and within Uniterra is much clearer for everyone. I also got to spend some time with the other volunteers, including Nathalie, and I've been the official Bobo guide for the weekend. I also get a whole lot of sympathy from everyone, since they all come from Ouaga, and think that I'm really living the extreme in Houndé. But I also realize that my experience is very different from theirs, and I really don't think there's too much I can be scared of after this. By the way, I don't know if this is too much information, but if we're talking about adapting to new and different situations, I should mention that I don't use toilet paper anymore. Ok, don't panic or let your imagination get ahead of you...first of all, there's no toilet paper in Houndé. I found one roll, once, and I'm probably the only person who ever bought it. So, short of not going to the bathroom, I had to explore my options. Since everyone here uses a little plastic kettle-like thing, and they all seem to be breathing and still living, I figured it couldn't be the end of the world. When I told my Ouaga people that, I thought that I had caused a collective cardiac arrest. But it's a matter of getting used to something.

So, back to the present. We've been having lots of fun in Bobo, and I've been getting spoiled. We're staying in Bobo's finest hotel, but which, according to our standards, is super tacky (think orange and brown carpeting on the walls), but it has a pool, is comfortable, and oh, it has toilet paper.It's been fun to be with some crazy Canadians...I even got thrown into a swimming pool fully clothed, had to hide from the hotel staff, then walk through the lobby dripping wet pretending that nothing happened...

Today is the celebration for the 10th anniversary of REVS+, so we're here for the day, and tomorrow's the official ceremony with the First Lady of Burkina Faso, and I get to wear my new outfit I got made! Jubilation!

Well, this one was short and sweet. A la prochaine!
Sara

Monday, October 15, 2007

Mon séjour au Maroc

Assalamu alaikum!

I'm here in Morocco being utterly spoiled, and I also have unlimited internet access! Party city!! So I decided to take advantage of this luxury and post another entry. I wish I could add some pictures, but my camera is being annoying.
So, as you know, I decided to come and celebrate Eid with my relatives in Casablanca, which was honestly one of the best decisions of my life. Before leaving, I spent a few days at Nathalie's beautiful house in Ouaga, which also did me some good since we got lots of time to catch up and share lots of stories. I got to the airport at 1am on Tuesday night, which was an interesting experience. Lots of flirty but harmless men can be found at the airport, and it's funny because as soon as you give them some attitude, they kind of begin to respect you and be friendly. While I was waiting for my plane, Val called me (yay!!!!) and we had to cram 3 months of news into 20 minutes, but it was better than nothing and made me super happy! Yay best friends!
Right after we hung up, I received a random love declaration from an airport worker who claimed he was really nervous, since apparently it was the first time he had ever been moved to approach a girl and compliment her. Right...
So yes, I arrived in Morocco and got picked up by the family. It is such a different world...I feel like I'm halfway between Africa and Europe. Come to think of it, I am...ehe...but I mean in terms of lifestyle and infrastructure and culture. The food is unbelievable, and it's so nice to be with family and to be taken care of.
Last time I came here I didn't like Casablanca, but this time around I'm appreciating the city more. Maybe I was more desperate for a change, but regardless of the reason, I'm finding the city bright, alive and comfortable, with lots of cafes, trees, music, and oh, random men who say "assalamu alaikum" in a really seductive way when you pass by...ah, Moroccan flirting. Teehee.
And I thought Ouaga traffic was bad...I'm convinced I almost died numerous times, but fortunately I am still in one piece.I went to the market with my honourary mother (who has proclaimed me her daughter and is determined to marry me to one of her remaining single sons) and I almost cried when I saw all the vegetables and fruits...it was like they were mocking me, reminding me that in Houndé there is nothing that can compare.
I have eaten like a queen here...Moroccan food is undoubtedly the best food in the world. We've eaten tajines, couscous, crepes, a ton of fresh fruit, moroccan pastries, soups, salads, fresh juices, you name it. How am I going to go back to rice and tomato paste and maggi cubes!! HOW???!!! Bo.
It was lovely to finish Ramadan here as well, since I felt a bit more at home and fasting was much easier. One night we went for evening prayer in the famous Hassan II mosque right beside the water, and it was so full (with 60.000 people) that we joined those who were praying outside on the courtyard beside the ocean. It was absolutely beautiful.
The night before Eid, Nadia and I went to a hammam, the traditional Moroccan baths. It was super chic, and we had someone do gommage, meaning you lie on a table and someone scrubs you down with an exfoliating glove. I was nice and red afterwards, but probably 5 pounds lighter without all the dirt, grime and dust that she had scrubbed out of me. That night, at 1am, my aunt told me she wanted to do henna. We sat in the living room and she did traditional henna on my hands and feet. I desperately needed to sleep, so we wrapped me up in old cloths and the next morning my henna was still intact!
On Eid day the whole family was here, and I helped prepare a giant plate of couscous, which can only be described as perfect. I decided to eat it Moroccan style and make the little couscous balls in my hand, but it is not easy. I ended up having a little mountain of couscous piled up in front of me, but it didn't matter...I was in the world of delightful taste sensations, and nothing could take away the joy. Hehehe. If you think I exaggerate, you have never tried homemade moroccan couscous.
I also got to talk to my family in a video conversation on Eid day, and it was so nice since I haven't seen them since I left. Adam is taller than I am now!!!
Yesterday Nadia, Ayoub and I went for a walk along the beach, watched the sunset and went for ICE CREAM (hallelujah!) at the best glacier in Morocco. Another delightful taste sensation.
We then got picked up by Younes, crammed way too many people into a very small car, and drove out of the city to a restaurant where you choose your meat at the butcher stall, then have it prepared for you. You eat it with traditional bread and mint tea. I ate heart for the firs ttime in my life, and though it tasted good, I was having a psychological issues eating it. Oh well!! One must always try something new, I suppose. I was so stuffed I could hardly breathe.
Ok...I just realized that the majority of this blog entry is focussed around food. Oh well!
I go back to BF tomorrow night, get back to work on Thursday, then next week I have to go to Bobo for a Uniterra meeting, where I have to present the work we've done so far to all the BF Uniterra workers and volunteers. In French. Blast.

So, I hope this entry wasn't too tedious, not even for my brother. Lots of love from Morocco!
Sara

Tuesday, October 9, 2007

Life in general

So…don’t hate me, but here it is…another super long blog entry. Jubilation! I would also like to announce that I am typing this on my laptop, which is a cause for much rejoicing, since it has been broken and out of order for a number of months. But finally I was able to find a mechanic who actually knew what he was doing and he did a great job. Except now everything is in French…but ca va aller! I’m currently in bed, staring down a large insect that of course, has to be huge and really ugly, and plant itself right beside my head. Thank heavens for my mosquito net, which puts a bit of distance between myself and this hideous creation.
So…where to start. Since I came back from Ouaga, I’ve been keeping busy with things in Houndé, not wandering far from home. Work has been really interesting, since we finally started going out to visit children, to start getting to know them and their families, and learning about their realities. The majority are AIDS orphans or children living with a positive parent. I am falling more and more in love with these children. Before starting someone told me to be careful, to not get too attached to them, because their lives aren’t easy, I’ll want to help them all. What they should have said is that I’ll want to bring them all home with me, do everything I possibly can to make them happy, and bring them all to Canada with me, because that would have been more accurate. I hear stories that break my heart everyday; the poverty, the maltreatment of orphans, the experiences of abandoned children, but these children also warm my heart when they start to share their stories with me. I’m learning how wonderful it feels to gain someone’s trust, and these children are just too wonderful. We have really exciting projects in mind for the kids…we want to build a library, start a community garden, create a theatre forum and cine-debate club, do visits to villages, and start a homework club. There’s too much, but if any of these ideas can become a reality I will be so happy. All we need is a little motivation and we’re set. And I have reason to be encouraged, because parents are really grateful for what we’re doing…I think a lot of them feel a bit isolated and forgotten, and to see that people are interested in I’ve also started helping with the distribution of food rations, and even though it’s not in my responsibilities, I really enjoy it. All our members come, and it’s a nice way to get to know them, and since a lot of them are the parents of our OEVs, it helps build trust and familiarity. Every time I leave the activity I’m covered in dust from head to toe, but it’s a satisfying kind of dust, if that makes any sense at all. I don’t think it does, so we shall pretend I never said it. Dust? What dust? Huh? Right…
I’m going to start dioula lessons (yes…finally!). Vraiment, moi-même c’est pas la peine…ça fait 3 mois que je suis ici et je comprend que les salutations. But I shall speak dioula before I leave. I’m beginning to understand key words, so if someone starts talking, sometimes I can put together the general idea, and once in a while I’ll scare someone a bit, if they were talking about me and thought that I was completely clueless. Hehehe…how I love those moments.
I hit a bit of a down point for a while, and I think it was a combination of things…I got an amoeba which was really unpleasant, and being sick made everything else worse. At the same time I learned firsthand how much people talk in this small town; people really have a lot of time on their hands, and since I’m one of the only Westerners here, my every move is public knowledge, and that’s before the exaggerations and interpretations enter the picture. It got to the point where someone spoke to my colleagues about things I never did, which I found really upsetting. At first it really got to me…I decided I would never leave my house, and basically become a nun. Meanwhile I was getting quite annoyed with men in general, since there’s a lot of attention sent my way, but most often it’s to try to get a visa to come to Canada (apparently I represent the Government of Canada and have the power to influence immigration laws and to hand out visas to n’importe qui). Then Ramadan started, which made me miss home, then it was my birthday, so all together, I was quite homesick. But, a good friend of mine at work, who most graciously listens to me and my complaints on a regular basis, reminded me that people are going to talk even if I become a nun and never leave my house, so d’ecouter ce que les gens disent c’est pas la peine. En tout cas! As Pamtaba says, ‘il faut tout multiplier par zero’ which I’m realizing is crucial, because otherwise it really gets you down. So, things are now going much better. Work is picking up a bit, meaning that people are approaching me more and more, we’re using our time more wisely, and there’s more communication between people in the office, making for a better work environment. I’m really lucky to have landed wonderful colleagues, but I have a bit of trouble working within their pace and level of motivation. I want to do things, to get things going, and no matter how much people warned us before leaving for placement that we shouldn’t expect to make a huge difference at work, I still think I can do a lot here, and I say that because there is so much potential; it’s going to take is a bit of energy and motivation to mobilise the people in the office to really get our act together, but it’s not impossible. The harder they see me work, the more they get involved, so it’s really encouraging, despite being frustrating at times.
One last element that was really affecting my happiness level was the food. My family knows not to mention the word ‘food’ on the phone because I might start crying…no jokes) but really in Houndé it is really difficult to eat varied meals. If it isn’t rice, it’s spaghetti, and if it isn’t spaghetti, it’s to. Everything is served with a sauce, made with a base of stock and tomato paste. There are other local sauces, made with various leaves, but I can’t eat them on a daily basis. My favourite sauce is made with pate d’arachides (peanut butter), but it’s also heavy and not edible on a daily basis. Ramadan has made my life easier, since it cuts my meals down to one a day, meaning I don’t feel weighed down by starch as many times a day.
At the point where I was nearing depression because of the food, I spent a day in Bobo with my friend Juliette, et on a profiter pour manger à mon restaurant préferé. It’s funny because I never realized how much food affects my overall mood, but after our meal, I was in a really, really good mood for days.
So…overall, as you all must realize by now, I feel like a change of scenery would do me a bit of good. So, if all goes well, I plan to celebrate Eid with my family in Morocco. I’ll be there for 6 days, and even if it’s short, it will be nice to change the air a bit, to be with some family, to eat MOROCCAN FOOD, and to be able to walk down the street and not stand out. Je vous jure, ca va faire du bien.
But, enough of the negative. Though things are frustrating at times, I’m falling more into a rhythm, starting to establish really nice relationships with those people I trust, and starting to get to know my Houndé more and more. As I start to feel more comfortable, I start to feel more at home. I also realize that it has a lot to do with establishing limits, something that’s hard at the very beginning. I think this is the point where I start to be more culturally savvy. It’s neat because I’ve never been somewhere for more than 3 months, especially not somewhere so incredibly different from home, so I’ve never experienced this process of really having to adapt and accept, and navigate within very specific social norms while still being true to my opinions and my way of thinking and seeing and interpreting. Overall, I’m happy, and everyday there are new challenges and lots of little successes. Also, I am in love with my mobylette. It’s the best mode of transportation ever, and I don’t know how I’m going to deal with cars again. It took some time to get used to the roads here, and if you don’t know to anticipate the holes and the animals and the puddles and the jutting rocks, you really are getting yourself into trouble. We had too many problems with the moto at the beginning, but now it’s much better. I finally had the courage to go out at night with my moto by myself, and at the end of the evening I drove home on my own. I nearly hit a donkey, but besides that, all passed sans problème J Speaking of donkeys…I have never heard such an awful racket come out of a living being. They make SO much noise! It’s really incredible, and it’s the most disturbing noise I’ve ever had the misfortune to hear. It’s like a horrible wheezing sound followed by this huge explosion of noise. Really unpleasant, especially because they start at about 4 in the morning. When I get up to eat before fasting it’s really hard to get back to sleep. While we’re on the topic of animals, I’ve been having major chicken problems…my friend Said planted me a garden, and these ridiculous chickens keep coming into my yard and yanking up all my plants. Ça m’énnerve, quoi. There is also a family of pigs who have installed themselves in my yard, since Delphine planted corn beside the house, and they enjoy the shade. En tout cas!
I spent the weekend in Bobo with my friend Aziz, which was a pleasure usual. It’s always nice because chez lui, je peux oublier les frustrations de Hounde, et me decompresser un peu. And he helps me run my million errands. And I eat really well…his mom is an excellent cook. On Monday night I was going to come home, but the organization RAJS (Reseau Africain Jeunesse et Sante) put on a talent show for youth. The theme was ‘how to prevent undesired pregnancies, and Aziz had his OEVs create a little skit and present it. It was really neat…I have never seen kids aged 10-15 discuss sexuality and sexual behaviour so seriously, as though they were talking about what they had for dinner. They talk about how to properly put on a condom without laughing or being embarrassed. I realize that this is a result of living a different reality…one where their parents are infected and they are constantly being reminded of the importance of responsible sexual behaviour. The evening was a huge success! The turnout was wonderful, Aziz’s kids came in second, and got to be hostess, which involved seating all the really important people, and accompanying the guests to the stage. This included the la monseigneur of Bobo (a very important religious leader), Christine Kafando, the Minister of Women and health, and Dhenje, a young Burkinabe hip hop artist, who wrote the most beautiful words. I must find his CD’s.
I must add…after the show, I got a phone call from an unknown number, so I answer and it turns out it’s Dhenje’s manager (don’t ask how he got my number…it seems to be the most widely distributed piece of information…bo). Anyway, Dhenje then took the phone and told me that he had noticed me, blah blah blah, and told me whenever I’m ready he’ll bring me to Ouaga to visit him. That’s right…Sara’s mingling with the stars! He called me again today from his studio to remind me of his invitation. Mamma mia
Nathalie arrived in Ouagadougou!! On my way to Morocco I’ll leave a few days early for Ouaga and do some catching up with her. Ca fera du bien. We spoke on the phone and it was neat because I realized that I have learned lots during my time here, since as I comforted Nathalie and told her everything would be ok, I realized that I have really dealt with a lot, and become quite comfortable and confident.
I have a million things to do before I leave, since I want to catch up on everything and leave with a clear mind. There are so many little things to do…and it’s made more complicated by the fact that the espece electrical company keeps cutting the electricity, so the computer at the office keeps turning off, and people who are starting to get used to the computer (and insist on typing everything themselves…which is really nice, because as I teach them, it shows me they’re getting more confident, but believe me, when you want to type a document in 5 minutes, and it takes someone else 2 hours to write, it’s slightly frustrating…ehe…). Tomorrow Pamtaba and I are going to do the grand tour of Houndé and visit all the children we haven’t yet had the chance to visit. After this come visits to the villages, and I can’t wait. After Ramadan though...petit a petit. Friday is a meeting with my OEV team, to discuss the visits to villages, and to decide when to start our homework club for the kids.
There are a million more details, but they would fill a book, and I don’t want to scare people away from my blog. As my brother says, he reads the first few lines of my entries and then is like, ‘ok, this is lame’, so though I try not to take him too seriously, I shall bring this entry to a close.

Lots and lots of love to everyone at home!
Bisous,
Sara